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Mexico's Copper Canyon, the Most Dramatic Train Ride in the Western Hemisphere

    The Copper Canyon, is a treasure chest of Mexico that is practically an unexplored frontier. The Chihuahua and Pacific Railway was inaugurated in 1961 after 76 years of labor and is an engineering masterpiece. The train covers 390 miles, has 39 bridges and 86 tunnels. It loops from sea level to 9,000 feet and back again through some of Mexico's most majestic pastel-colored, rugged mountain and pine forest country. Two other notable features include the train looping over itself at "the Loop" and a 180 degree turn inside a solid rock tunnel. The Reader's Digest called it "the most dramatic train ride in the western hemisphere."

    In 1999 a private rail company, Ferromex made a significant investment to modernize the train, track, stations and passenger cars adding elegant dining and lounge cars. The passenger cars are air-conditioned, have large panoramic windows for viewing and comfortable seats with plenty of leg room. Very attentive staff members keep passenger cars spotlessly clean. Each car has an outdoor viewing area where you can stand with your camera, "snapping away" as the train rolls along on it's spectacular scenic route.

    Often compared to Arizona's Grand Canyon, the Copper Canyon is made up of 20 canyons, is four times larger and 280 feet deeper. The Copper Canyon system is in the middle of the legendary Sierra Madre Mountains of northwestern Mexico's state of Chihuahua. It is wonderful to explore this huge, intriguing region with towering pine trees, red-barked Madrone trees, and awe inspiring views of yawning chasms. There are several easy hiking trails along the rim offering you time to take in this magical area on your own.

    The railroad made the Canyons accessible for tourists to enter the area, long inhabited by the reclusive Tarahumara Indians. These small, shy Indians are famed for their long-distance running ability. They live in small settlements of log huts or caves, planting crops and herding goats and cattle, much like their ancestors have for the last 400 years. The men wear sandals, white loincloths and colorful headbands; and the women, brightly colored full cotton skirts and ruffled blouses. Some of the handicrafts you can buy from them are pine needle baskets, woven belts and handmade violins. Our guide took us on a short hike into the canyon to visit a family. Life is very simple but one could sense how important family is.

    We spent the night in the lovely Posada Rancho Hotel perched right on the edge of the rim of the canyon. We woke early the next morning, sat on our balcony with coffee watching the sunrise. What a magnificent experience, as the sun slowly rose illuminating the canyon walls.

    It's true, the Copper Canyon and Tarahumara Indians were the highlight of our visit, but this area has so much more to offer it's visitor. For example the picturesque colonial town of El Fuerte (The Fort). It was founded in 1564 along the El Fuerte River by the Spanish conquistador Don Francisco de Ibarra, the first explorer. In 1610 a fort was built to ward off the fierce Indians, who constantly harassed the Spaniards. Our hotel, Posada Del Hidalgo, was formally the home of territorial governor Don Rafael J. Almada, who built it with great pride over a four year period for he and his family in 1903. The home remained in the hands of the Almada heirs until 1967, by then, however it had deteriorated almost to the state of ruin. In 1968 it was bought by a well-known, Mexican hotelier Roberto Balderrama Gomez, who bought the mansion, restored and converted it into the charming hotel it is today. Rumor has it that the hotel is haunted by the ghost of Don Rafael's soul, and on the blackest of nights, the old pianola, which is in the living room today, is said to play by itself!

    Just outside of Chihuahua is the Mennonite Community of Cuauhtemoc. The Mennonites originated in northern Germany in the 16th century. They developed a strict Bible-based philosophy governing daily life, prohibiting them from engaging in war and many other aspects of popular culture. Because of their beliefs and not being able to practice them, they chose to immigrate to other lands. In 1920, five thousand Mennonites from Canada asked the Mexican government for permission to settle in Cuauhtemoc. At that time the area was little more than a desert. Today they have transformed this desert into a productive and prosperous farming community. We stopped to visit a family and had a simple lunch of homemade cheese, sausage and cookies.

    Our last stop was Chihuahua, one of the most beautiful and important cities in northern Mexico, founded by the Spanish in 1709. The city claims fame to the domestication of the small dog that once ran wild in the desert, the Chihuahua dog.

    Located in the heart of the city is the Cathedral and Main Square. Building of the cathedral began in 1726 and was completed 99 years later. Construction money was obtained by taxing every silver bar that came out of the mines in the city's vicinity. Limestone was used from a nearby quarry and the beautiful Baroque Style façade is hand carved by local craftsman.

    Another beautiful piece of architecture is the State Capitol building, started in 1881 and completed eleven years later. Inside the central patio are beautiful murals done by local artists, depicting historical events that happened in the area from the settlement of the first white man to the Revolution in 1910.

    No tour to Chihuahua is complete without a visit to the legendary hero's home, Pancho Villa. Doroteo Arango (Pancho Villa) was born in 1878 in the state of Durango. He lost his father at a very young age, and like most of the poor during that time started working as a "Peon" in one of the Haciendas. At the age of 16 he shot a man, ran away and became a bandit. About the time of the Revolution, leaders needed men who knew the country and could shoot straight. They asked Villa and his men to join them and fight for a good cause. In return they would forgive them all for past sins. Villa, being a natural born leader, soon became one of the main military leaders. At the end of the revolution, the government granted him a ranch where he could retire. Three years later he was killed in an ambush while driving his car by political enemies. He was 45 years old at the time of his death. The bullet-riddled 1919 Dodge is on display in his home.

    Touring the Chihuahua/Copper Canyon region is delightful offering a good variety of sights to please many interests. Travel is at an easy pace, offering cultural insight to the Mexican, Mennonite and Tarahumara Indians. History lovers will enjoy facts and sights from the Mexican Revolution. Nature lovers will enjoy the tranquility and beauty of the Canyon. The train is comfortable, a uniquely engineered masterpiece, offering spectacular scenic beauty. Seven day land packages can be picked up from El Paso, Texas and are an extremely good value.

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