Vienna, The Imperial City of the Hapsburgs

My husband Joe and I spent four full days in Vienna and even that was not enough time for all the city has to offer its visitors. These are just a few of the highlights from our personal visit in April, 2005.

A brief history. Austria became a part of the Holy Roman Empire established by Charlemagne in the year 692. My research on the Holy Roman Empire reveals that it was just a name for the empire. The first family to hold the title of Holy Roman Emperor was from the House of Babenberg but were eventually replaced by the Hapsburgs, who ruled Austria for 645 years. Under the Hapsburgs, Austria rose to be one of the grandest powers in all of Europe. The now-collapsed empire once covered Poland, Serbia, Hungary, Romania, Czech Republic, Germany plus parts of Spain, Holland, Burgundy, and Italy. The Holy Roman Empire ended during Napoleon's reign and was replaced by the Empire of Austria in 1806. After Napoleon met his Waterloo, the Congress of Vienna in 1815 gathered to restore the established order that had been severely disrupted by the French emperor. From this meeting, the European map was redrawn and the Hapsburg ruled an empire that included much of Eastern Europe. Eventually another wave of revolution shook the Austrian state and in June 1914 a Serbian anarchist, revolting against Austrian rule, shot archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austrian throne, setting off World War I.

In the center of the city is the Cathedral of St. Stephens, the soul of the city. A church has been on this site for 800 years. Located in a vault under the main altar are some of the burial urns from the Hapsburg line. Badly damaged during World War II, the cathedral continues to be in a state of restoration. Its roof is covered with a million glazed tiles, bearing the coat of arms of the Hapsburgs. All of these tiles have been meticulously restored after the damage from the war. Inside St. Stephens is an impressive collection of works of art spanning several centuries. For me it was the intricate, carved sandstone, Gothic pulpit designed by Anton Pilgram that was the most inspiring. It is decorated with a spiral staircase, and portraits of the Four Fathers of the church with life-like realism. At the base of the 15th century pulpit is a portrait of Pilgram himself, looking out from a window. This concept was almost unheard of - as well as controversial - in Gothic times. Builders' and artists' works for the church were done in honor and glory of God; not even their names were ever mentioned.

Schonbrunn Palace is just outside the city, but easily accessible by public transportation. The palace was built in the 17th century as a grand Baroque summer residence of the Hapsburgs. However, it was Maria Theresa who completed the interior of its 1,200 rooms, and spared no expense in doing so. The forty rooms that are open to the public are very beautiful, but my favorite part was seeing the personal items of the people that lived in the palace and hearing their stories.

Maria Theresa ruled from 1740-1780 and was a strong leader and effective queen. She was the mother of 16 children, 12 of whom survived.Empress Maria Theresa was a great social reformer. During her reign, she avoided wars and expanded her empire by skillfully marrying her children into the right families. After her daughter Marie Antoinette's marriage to Louis XVI of France, France went from an enemy to an ally. Maria Theresa became known as the "Mother-in-law" of Europe. A great reformer, Maria Theresa employed policies to help Austria glide through the "age of revolution" without turmoil. She taxed the church and nobility, provided six years of obligatory education to all children, and granted free healthcare to all in her realm.

The other important ruler to Austria was Emperor Franz Josef I, who ruled the Hapsburg empire for 68 years (1848-1916). During my visit to Austria and Hungary, I was under the impression as a leader he was hard-working and well-liked by the people. Upon my return to the U.S., research revealed his policies played a major role in the events that led to World War I. Franz Josef became emperor when the previous Emperor, Ferdinand, abdicated during the revolution of 1848. With Russian help, Franz Josef was able to restore order to his empire. He failed to support Russia in the Crimean War, permanently damaging relationships. Later he lost most of Austria's Italian possessions as well as leadership in Germany. Weakened by these reverses, Franz Josef negotiated with Hungary becoming King in 1867 forming the Austria-Hungary Empire. He ignored the fact that the majority of his subjects did not speak German and also overlooked the friction his policies were causing with Russia and the European Slavic people. Having no interest in democracy he resisted change and never saw what a dinosaur his monarchy was becoming. Franz Josef did not live to see the Austrian defeat in the war or the extinction of the Hapsburg Empire.

The Augustinian Church is a beautiful 14th century Gothic church, where the Hapsburgs were married. Except for the modern chandeliers, its original interior has been well preserved. Inside is an exquisite tomb memorial commissioned by Maria Theresa for the death of her favorite daughter, Maria Christina. The sculpture of a group of nine mourning figures shown entering a mausoleum is one of the most powerful works by the Italian sculptor Antonio Canova. Maria Christina was the only daughter that was able to enter a "love" marriage, all other siblings had arranged political marriages.

The Capuchins' Crypt is where the Hapsburgs are buried, or rather part of them are buried! Their hearts are buried in the Augustinian Church and their entrails in the catacombs of St. Stephen's Cathedral. Twelve emperors, sixteen empresses and more than one hundred archdukes are buried in this crypt. Maria Theresa and her husband, lie in a double sarcophagus, adorned with the busts of the deceased facing each other and a statue of an angel, ready to sound a trumpet on the day of judgment. This is the largest and most elaborate tomb in the crypt.

The famed Winter Spanish Riding School is where the white Lipizzaner horses perform intricate steps to the music of Mozart beneath elegant chandeliers. The school was commissioned by Emperor Karl VI (Father of Maria Theresa) in 1729. The gracious interior is lined with 46 columns and adorned with elaborate plasterwork, crystal chandeliers and a coffered ceiling. Spectators may sit and watch from two upper levels. At the head of the arena is the court box, where an equestrian portrait of Karl VI hangs in the royal box. Whenever a rider enters the hall, he must express his respect to the founder of the school by raising his hat to the portrait. The Lipizzaner horses are renowned for their grace and stamina. Today the horses are bred on the Austrian National Stud Farm at Piber near Graz. Most Lipizzaners are born black or brown and become lighter with age, usually pure white by the age of ten. The Stallions are trained from the age of three.

Fifty miles west of Vienna is one of the most magnificent stretches of river scenery in Europe. Castles, churches and wine-producing medieval villages rise up on either side of the Danube valley and with breathtaking views. The stretch from the town of Krems to Melk is called the Wachau Valley and is best viewed from the water by one of the many tour boats that operate in this area. The high point of the trip is the town of Melk with the magnificent Benedictine Abbey of Melk. The Abbey is one of Austria's most beautiful baroque churches, first founded in 1089 and rebuilt in the 18th century in its present baroque style. It was the duty of the Benedictines to provide suitable lodging for the Royal family and that they did. All interiors of the Royal apartments, library, marble hall and the Abbey Church are lavishly decorated including frescos, gold ornaments and extensive marble. The great library contains 2,000 volumes from the 9th-15th century.

There is always more, but these are just the highlights of this fascinating area, rich in history, culture and the arts. After our visit to Vienna, Joe and I took a train to Budapest. I will talk about this in my next newsletter.